sirocco

Sirocco offers vibrant Spanish, Italian and Greek flavors

Pam GeorgeBusiness, Headlines

sirocco

At Sirocco, the seafood medley smartly utilizes dayboat scallops (above)., octopus, shrimp and clams showcased separately on the menu.

A sirocco is a Mediterranean wind from the Sahara that can reach hurricane-level speed.

In Rehoboth Beach, however, Sirocco Food & Drink is a breath of fresh air.

The newly opened restaurant is in Coastal Rehoboth Beach, part of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton.

The hotel replaces the Sandcastle Motel, a concrete gray edifice resembling a giant prop for a “Camelot” production.

In comparison, the 60-room Coastal Rehoboth Beach is a contemporary boutique hotel, and along with the Bellmoore Inn & Spa and Hotel Rehoboth, it meets the demand for upscale accommodations. 

Unlike those two properties, however, Coastal Rehoboth Beach is two blocks from the boardwalk. It has a rooftop indoor pool, parking and the on-site restaurant off the lobby.

Although Sirocco just opened, it was hopping on a Sunday night, and not all customers were hotel guests. 

Rehoboth Beach always embraces a new restaurant, but this eatery’s menu is particularly appealing.

Vibrant flavors

Given the restaurant’s name, you would expect dishes with Spanish, Italian and Greek flavors. You won’t be disappointed.

Take, for instance, lemon chicken and orzo with veggies and white beans or a classic Greek salad with kalamata olives, feta, cucumber and fresh oregano. 

Or opt for the caprese, a fan of local tomatoes with burrata, pine nuts, basil-infused olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar. Small plates also include antipasto and charred octopus.

For a fun take on “smash burgers,” the kitchen uses merguez lamb patties with North African spices. 

The two sliders are dressed with Greek feta, pickled onions and dill aioli, and a refreshing cucumber-tomato salad. 

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The Spanish influence is evident in a tumble of juicy shrimp and roasted garlic. The pool of olive oil is laced with guindilla chili peppers and red pepper flakes. With the grilled bread, you can sop up every spicy drop of oil.

Unfortunately, flaming saganaki, a Greek specialty, wasn’t available that night. The kefalograviera cheese used in the eye-catching dish is hard to source.

So, to draw attention to ourselves, we had the Nightfall Manhattan, made with Bulleit Bourbon. 

Using a device resembling a toy gun, the bartender created a wobbly citrus-infused bubble that adhered to the glass like a dome. Put the glass to your lips, however, and it dissolves into a pouf of smoke—a cocktail and a magic trick.

The beer list was carefully curated with two Italian-style pilsners, one of which comes from Dewey Beer Co. There are also beers from Big Oyster Brewery and Dogfish Head Craft Brewery.

Something for everyone

Like the small plates and appetizers, many entrees reinforce the theme.

Consider lamb chops with roasted eggplant, couscous and mint gremolata or whole branzino with a bright mix of citrusy lemon, tart capers and fresh herbs.

Consider lamb chops with roasted eggplant, couscous and mint gremolata or whole branzino with a bright mix of citrusy lemon, tart capers and fresh herbs.

But this section also appeals to a broader audience. Since we are in a resort town on the Delmarva Peninsula, jumbo lump crab cakes are a must. Sirocco’s take is packed with snowy nuggets.

But this section also appeals to a broader audience.

Meanwhile, frutti di mare over fettuccini now appears in non-Italian seafood restaurants. Along with cioppino and bouillabaisse, it’s a coastal standard. 

At Sirocco, the seafood medley smartly utilizes the dayboat scallops, octopus, shrimp and clams showcased separately on the menu.

The requisite filet is also present. Sirocco’s center cut wears a peppercorn coat and comes with wild mushrooms and a veal demiglace. 

sirocco

The newly opened Sirocco is in Coastal Rehoboth Beach, part of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton

A sunny future

Sirocco is new and looks it. For instance, the design reflects 2023 aesthetics: neutral colors, uncovered surfaces and windows that fold open to the sidewalk—a prime spot for people-watching.

If anything, the room is too sleek, especially since there are no table linens and little room for artwork. 

Leafy plants or textures on the walls, tables or floors might create warmth and visual interest. After all, the Mediterranean is a vibrant place.

There are plans to define the dining room better so it’s not as open to the lobby, and other tweaks are in the works, likely after the summer rush.

Indeed, opening a restaurant and hotel in the thick of the season is no easy feat.

However, the management company, TKo Hospitality, has a superior track record. A Harvey Hanna and Associates affiliate, the company has worked with Hyatt (Hyatt Place Dewey Beach), Marriott Hotels and Starwood Hotels and Resorts.

As we edge into the “second season,” aka autumn, Sirocco will undoubtedly be a culinary force in the downtown district. 

 

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